No one who visits the Seville Fair can avoid the Gateway, called the “Portada” in Spanish. The huge structures gracing the entrance to all the big fairs are an important part of the Fería decoration (considered, in fact, to be works of art) with Seville’s Gateway modelled after the entrance to the University of Seville, historically a tobacco factory. The fair officially begins when the mayor very ceremoniously turns on the lights – starting with the 22,000 bulbs that cover the Gateway. From there, the rest of the fairgrounds light up, section by section in a wave that has become a tradition that even makes newspaper headlines every year.
According to legend, Sevilla was founded by Hercules and its origins are linked with the Tartessian civilisation. It was called Hispalis under the Romans and Isbiliya with the Moors. Its high point in its history was following the discovery of America.
Sevilla lies on the banks of the Guadalquivir and is one of the largest historical centres in Europe, it has the minaret of La Giralda, the cathedral (one of the largest in Christendom), and the Alcázar Palace. Part of its treasure include Casa de Pilatos, Torre del Oro, the Town Hall, Archive of the Indies (where the historical records of the American continent are kept), the Fine Arts Museum (the second largest picture gallery in Spain) , plus convents, parish churches and palaces.
It has hosted two international exhibitions (1929 and 1992) and is the administrative capital of Andalucía. The quarter of Triana on the other side of the river, La Macarena, Santa Cruz and San Bartolomé, the street of Las Sierpes, plus La Maestranza bullring, María Luisa park and the riverside walks are all representative images of Sevilla.
For all its important monuments and fascinating history, Sevilla is universally famous for being a joyous town. While the Sevillians are known for their wit and sparkle, the city itself is striking for its vitality. It is the largest town in Southern Spain, the city of Carmen, Don Juan and Figaro.
The Sevillians are great actors and put on an extraordinary performance at their annual Fería de Abril, a week-long party of drink, food and dance which takes place day and night in more than a thousand especially mounted tents. But above all it allows the men to parade on their fine horses and the women to dance in brilliantly coloured gypsy dresses.
Immediately before that is Holy Week, Semana Santa, a religious festival where hooded penitents march In long processions followed by huge baroque floats on which sit Images of the Virgin or Christ, surrounded by cheerful crowds. Both Spring events are well worth experiencing.
In Sevilla, you will want to visit the old city, with the Cathedral and the Giralda tower at its heart. (You can climb the steps inside the tower for a magnificent view of the City). Very close by are the royal Mudéjar palace known as the Alcazar with marvellous gardens and the Santa Cruz quarter, with cramped streets, flowered balconies, richly decorated facades, hidden patios... Other sights not to be missed are, in the old city, the Casa de Pilatos, a large sixteenth-century mansion where Mudejar, Gothic and Renaissance styles blend harmoniously amidst exuberant patios and gardens and, crossing the Triana bridge over the large Guadalquívir River, the lively popular quarter of Triana with charming narrow streets around the church of Santa Ana and traditional ceramic factories.
Recommended charming Hostels
In Sevilla, several hostels are restored as well-maintained town houses or mansions arranged around a typical, Andalucian courtyard. This is an experience not to be missed as they are available in all price ranges.
Recommended tapas bars
Don's miss out on the tapas. The city is credited with their invention and has more than a thousand bars where the choice of food, is virtually unlimited, from seafood to ham and sausage, from vegetable to cheese. The Sevillians actually make a meal of them, moving from bar to bar and trying one dish at a time.
In the Santa Cruz quarter, try Bar Giralda, Modesto, Las Teresas and Casa Robles.
In Triana, El Kiosco de las Flores, Casa Cuesta and Bodeguita Sanlúcar. In Santa Catalina, El Rinconcillo, El Bacalao and Quitapesares (Bar Peregill)
Seville is an amazing city to visit any time of year, but Spring is special in Sevilla. The city bursts into bloom with aromatic orange blossoms and jasmine perfuming the air and everyone is in the best of humour as the city’s two greatest festivals take place this time of year – first Semana Santa and then the Spring Fair.
The Seville Fair takes place just two weeks after Semana Santa, so if you have the energy you can enjoy both spectacles during your stay in Seville. However, consider yourself forwarned in that this is a week of serious dancing, drinking, eating and enjoying entertainment with late nights – or all nighters – the norm. As a non-native, you will have to pay very special attention to how the authentic “Sevillanos” (natives of Seville) manage their time and energy in order to make it full force right through to the end.
The official fair grounds are called the “Real de la Feria”. This is an area covering 1.2 million square metres that is divided into three parts, one for parking, another for the amusement park and then a vast area set aside for the main attraction– the casetas. These are canvas tent pavillions that are set up every year in rows that make up the streets of the fairgrounds. Some of these belong to eminent local families, some to groups of friends, business owners, others to clubs, trade associations or political parties. Inside the tents the drinks begin to flow and tapas are served from around 1:30 mid-day till early next morning. Each caseta is equipped with a full bar, small “kitchen” area and a sound system or live entertainment with the official Sevillana style of music the order of the day as everyone is set to dance “Sevillanas” all week long. This is the official genre of folk music in Seville. It is based on a set pattern upon which local artists fashion ever new themes.
 |
| Fun and festivity at the Seville fair |
Some men and virtually all women wear the traditional costume. For men – particularly those on horseback or driving carriages, this is the “traje corto” – or short suit consisting of fitted pants and a short cut jacket. It goes together with a wide-brimmed hat. Women on the other hand, turn out in an astonishing array of the latest styles of the traditional “traje de gitano”, literally “gypsy outfits” or flamenco dresses. Click here for the true story behind the dress code at the Seville Fair.
Most of the casetas are private and thus open only to members and their guests. If you’re lucky enough to make friends with someone in Seville who has a caseta, you could be lucky enough to receive a much coveted invite. However, there are also “open” casetas. The "caseta municipal" is run by the town hall, and is one of the largest and always open to everyone, but it can be completely full if a well known band or singer is on stage.
The sheer size of the April Fair’s spectacle is extraordinary, and the dancing with its intense and knowing sexuality, a revelation. Most infectious of all is the universal spontaneity of enjoyment. After wandering around drinking in the scenes that surround, you may wind up a part of it, drinking and dancing in one of the open casetas which welcome everyone on board.
From around midday until early evening, Sevilla society parades around the fairground in carriages or on horseback. An incredible extravaganza of display and voyeurism, this has subtle but distinct graduations of dress and style, catch it at least once. There are also bullfights on a daily basis which are generally considered the best of the season.
The feria usually starts on a Saturday and runs nine days to the following Sunday night. Actually, the feria officially starts at midnight on the Sunday night (but there will be much activity during the preceeding weekend).
We have calculated the following start dates, at 12:00 midnight on:
-
28 April 2009
-
12 April 2010
